Some bars and restaurants attempt to transport you to another time and place. Le Pigeon, for example, conjures images of a Parisian bistro; Doug Fir’s cozy fireplace, wood bar, and architecture take you to 1950’s southern California. Kir is not one of those places. In fact, when you walk in to the unpretentious and small wine bar (located across the street from the aforementioned establishments) you immediately feel like you are in the present moment, as Kir is the quintessential Portland place.
Kir, like the name, is simple yet delicious. There are about 8 seats at the bar, which are surrounded by another 5 tables. A small open kitchen is located in the back. The proprietor, Amalia, advertises Kir as a “relaxed and intimate wine bar specializing in mostly European and eclectic wines”, and that description is right on the mark as she was very generous in offering sample pours.
The wine menu was on a chalkboard, with about 20 bottles offered by the pour, all under $10. Most were from European producers, with a few local offerings such as the Patricia Green Sauvignon Blanc. The selection was certainly “eclectic” as advertised, as each wine was distinctly different and unusual. For example, the Lambrusco, which normally has a reputation as a cheap red table wine found on the bottom shelf of a supermarket, was refreshing, with surprising juiciness and sparkle. The Ribera del Duero was rich and earthy, a phenomenal match to the smoky pistachios. We loved that she had knowledge of all the wines, which she obviously takes great care to select herself.
The food is where this place really gets interesting and surprising, as the small plates had great quality, were fresh, and matched the wines. Unlike other wine bars that serve food, the plates were hearty enough to qualify as a meal. The paprika roasted pistachios ($3) had amazing flavor and spice, and matched any of the wines. All of the other plates were around $7-$10, including chicken liver pate, pork ragu with polenta, meatballs with pine nuts (we ordered twice it was so good!), green salad with farro, walnuts, and beet creme fraiche, and a salumi and cheese plate. All were delicious and paired well with the wines.
Portland is gaining a reputation as a city that values farmer’s markets, quality food, with people who are knowledgeable about wine and food. Kir embodies these values, and the proprietor’s passion for food and wine is evident. Other wine professionals appear to be noticing Kir’s quality, as we saw the tasting room manager from a prominent winery in Dundee as well as the owner of a Portland wine shop. Kir is simple and focused, and does simple and focused very well. We loved it and will be back.
Kir’s site:
www.kirwinebar.com
22 NE 7th Ave, Portland, OR
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What acouple, and with such good taste,too.