Our espresso machine died today. Or maybe it just needs resuscitated according to the coffeegeek.com forums: “Send it back to the manufacturer but since they do not sell parts directly it may be better to throw it away and buy a new machine.” What a metaphor for today’s throw-away culture where it’s cheaper to buy the latest technology rather than repair the old one.
The natural wine blog Saignee discusses the differences between “natural” wines and it’s counterpart “industrial” wines. In a nutshell, Saignee indicates natural wines are focused on process (i.e. how the wine is made and the principals behind it) vs. the industrial focus on outcome (how the wine tastes, scores, etc.). Most wines seem to fall somewhere in the middle.
In the coffee machine example, the process oriented owner would repair the machine themselves, at the very least pay $200 for manufacturer repairs while the outcome owner would pay $200-$400 to buy a brand new machine.
In the wine world, “natural” wine makers focus on the philosophy of the process, whether the wine is made organically, biodynamically, “naturally”, etc. Often you will hear a winemaker state how they wish to “express the grape and/or land” in the wine (thanks Randall Grahm for your treatise on terroir).
Recently at the International Pinot Noir Convention, a winemaker (outcome oriented) stated he had a difficult growing year in 2007 but that it did not matter because “I can fix anything with adding sugar, removing alcohol, you name it.” Is that something to brag about?
If you enjoy natural, process driven wines, then you may wish to try Brooks Winery from the Eola Hills. The founder, Jimi Brooks, passed away in 2004, and the winery was kept alive by generous winemakers (who made the wine for free the harvest after Jimi’s passing) and the resiliency of his family. Currently, Janie Brooks Hueck is the Managing Director, and Jimi’s son Pascal is the world’s youngest winery owner at 14 years of age, carrying on the legacy of the biodynamic winemaker.
Storyteller Wines showcased a number of Brooks Wines last Friday night (for free), featuring three Rieslings and a number of Pinot Noir bottlings. The common thread of all wines were the simple (but not boring), crisp, fresh and “natural” tastes.
Jancis Robinson wrote about Brooks wines, describing the 2002 Janus Pinot Noir: “Notably pale. Bright red. Very individualistic and distinctive. More freshness than most. Transparent and so casual and confident! Bravo! Lovely expressive, lucid Pinot.”
The wines are all priced very moderately, with tremendous bargains ($15 Amycas White and an $18 Runaway Red).
While only 14, Pascal Brooks already exudes a maturity and a sense of humor. When asked: “Do you ever get to taste the wines?” He quietly replied without missing a beat: “I can’t tell you, you might be a cop.”
Each wines has it’s own story (i.e. the “Runaway Red” derives it’s name from a barrel rolling down the hill after an accident), and the Brooks Winery story is indeed an amazing one. The wines are light in alcohol, simple yet sophisticated with very fair price points. Be careful though, once you start appreciating a winery like Brooks, you might end up repairing your own coffee machines.
Brooks Winery






